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First Growing Season
Figure 4.3 (B) shows the proper height, 30 inches, at which to cut back the tree at planting. Heading back the tree to this height will bring the top and roots back into balance and cause buds just below the cut to grow and form scaffold branches. Cutting lower, 24 inches (A) will result in excessive vegetative growth. Cutting too high, 36 inches (C) will result in weak growth in the top of the tree as well as in lower areas.
After a few weeks, trees that are headed may appear as in Figure 4.4A. The shoots are vigorous and upright growing with very narrow crotch angles. To prevent this, you need to force the new shoots to a more horizontal growth pattern. When 2 to 3 inches of growth have occurred, position wooden spring-type clothespins between the main trunk or branch and the new succulent growth (4.4B). The clothespins will force the new growth outward and upward and form the strong crotch angles needed to support the fruit load in years to come. Allow the most vigorous upright branch to remain growing straight up--this will become the central leader. You should plan to keep approximately four to six of the developing shoots with the goal of having them separated equally around the trunk and arranged vertically within a 4- to 10-inch distance. Looking downward on the tree the arrangement would appear as in Figure 4.5.
It is important that the limbs are spread when they are young. If a limb is not spread as in the picture above, a bark inclusion can develop. This occurs when the bark of the trunk and the branch have been pressed together. This structure weakens the branch and serves as an entry point for pathogens. The wide-angled branch on the right, however, allows for growth and expansion of both the trunk and the branch and produces a much stronger branch that can withstand future heavy crop loads.
